Crab Apple Jelly
 Every year you said it wasn’t worth the trouble –
 you’d better things to do with your time –
 and it made you furious when the jars
 were sold at the church fête
 for less than the cost of the sugar.
 And every year you drove into the lanes
 around Calverton to search
 for the wild trees whose apples
 looked as red and as sweet as cherries,
 and tasted sharper than gooseberries.
 You cooked them in the wide copper pan
 grandma brought with her from Wigan,
 smashing them against the sides
 with a long wooden spoon to split
 the skins, straining the pulp
 through an old muslin nappy.
 It hung for days, tied with a string
 to the kitchen steps, dripping
 into a bowl on the floor –
 brown-stained, horrible,
 a head in a bag, a pouch
 of sourness, of all that went wrong
 in that house of women. The last drops
 you wrung out with your hands;
 then, closing doors and windows
 to shut out the clamouring wasps,
 you boiled up the juice with sugar,
 dribbling the syrup onto a cold plate
 until it set to a glaze,
 filling the heated jars.
 When they were cool
 you held one up to the light
 to see if the jelly had cleared.
 Oh Mummy, it was as clear and shining
 as stained glass and the colour of fire.
Dawlish, 1949
 In the kitchen, Aunt Inge,
 who in the war was accused
 of hanging nappies on the line
 to send messages to the Germans
 and who, the first Christmas
 in Devon, cut and bundled
 and sent up to London
 enough mistletoe and holly
 to almost pay for this house
 with its crumbling stone terrace
 overlooking the sea – some people
 always land on their feet! –
 stands with two bantams
 squawking and fluttering
 in her podgy red hands.
 I am crying. It’s the heat
 and excitement, mother says,
 dabbing cotton wool soaked
 in cold pink calamine lotion
 onto my burning back.
 On the terrace,
 the little cousin is calling:
 ‘Schmetterling! Schmetterling!’
 ‘It’s not! It’s not!’ I scream.
 ‘It’s a butterfly!’
Send Letters To:
                The Editor 
                London Review of Books, 
                28 Little Russell Street 
                London, WC1A 2HN
letters@lrb.co.uk
                Please include name, address, and a telephone number.
            

