Margaret Visser: Modern cuisine, 30 November 2000
Show More The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture by Rebecca Spang.
Harvard, 325 pp., £21.95, April 2000, 0 674 00064 1Show More
Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession by Amy Trubek.
Pennsylvania, 171 pp., £18.50, June 2000, 0 8122 3553 3Show More
“... Rebecca Spang explodes a culinary myth that has lasted nearly two hundred years. The story goes more or less like this. Restaurants as we know them were a product of the French Revolution and came into being in order to ensure that pleasurable eating would not remain the privilege of the wealthy. Kitchenless provincial Revolutionaries crowded into Paris, and at the same time the highly skilled chefs of beheaded or émigré aristocrats found themselves out of work ...”