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Twenty-Two Different Ways of Cooking Veal

Margaret Visser: Modern cuisine, 30 November 2000

The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture 
by Rebecca Spang.
Harvard, 325 pp., £21.95, April 2000, 0 674 00064 1
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Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession 
by Amy Trubek.
Pennsylvania, 171 pp., £18.50, June 2000, 0 8122 3553 3
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... Rebecca Spang explodes a culinary myth that has lasted nearly two hundred years. The story goes more or less like this. Restaurants as we know them were a product of the French Revolution and came into being in order to ensure that pleasurable eating would not remain the privilege of the wealthy. Kitchenless provincial Revolutionaries crowded into Paris, and at the same time the highly skilled chefs of beheaded or émigré aristocrats found themselves out of work ...

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