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All about the Beef

Bernard Porter: The Food War, 14 July 2011

The Taste of War: World War Two and the Battle for Food 
by Lizzie Collingham.
Allen Lane, 634 pp., £30, January 2011, 978 0 7139 9964 8
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... is just like being hungry, only worse. ‘Victims of starvation die of nutritional dystrophy,’ Lizzie Collingham writes in The Taste of War, a process whereby, once the body has used up all its fat reserves, the muscles are broken down in order to obtain energy. The small intestine atrophies and it becomes increasingly difficult for the victim to ...

Too Specific and Too Vague

Bee Wilson: Curry House Curry, 24 March 2022

Taste Makers: Seven Immigrant Women Who Revolutionised Food in America 
by Mayukh Sen.
Norton, 259 pp., £18.99, January, 978 1 324 00451 6
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The Philosophy of Curry 
by Sejal Sukhadwala.
British Library, 106 pp., £10, March, 978 0 7123 5450 9
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... They often contained weird ingredients unknown in India. In her 2005 book Curry: A Biography, Lizzie Collingham records that Richard Terry of the Oriental Club in London ‘not only added the by now standard apples to his mulligatawny but also bay leaves, ham and turnips’. If these were the curries Mattie Robinson knew, it’s no wonder that she ...

The Nazis Used It, We Use It

Alex de Waal: Famine as a Weapon of War, 15 June 2017

... died from disease and starvation.’ In The Taste of War: World War II and the Battle for Food Lizzie Collingham makes the point that the failure to starve ‘useless eaters’ in sufficient numbers, sufficiently quickly, became a rationale for expediting their mass murder by killing squads and gas chambers.Backe was interrogated but by the time the ...

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