Down to the Last Cream Puff
Steven Shapin: The End of Haute Cuisine, 5 August 2010
Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine
by Michael Steinberger.
Bloomsbury, 248 pp., £8.99, July 2010,978 1 4088 0136 9 Show More
by Michael Steinberger.
Bloomsbury, 248 pp., £8.99, July 2010,
“... happened in France – they ran out of gas.’ The excellent American food and wine writer Michael Steinberger now follows Gopnik and the New York Times, concerned that haute cuisine has gone to pot. The disappointment is clear; its cause is not so clear. Is the problem that French cooking is not what it was, or that it is? In Casablanca, Bogie ... ”
