Margaret Visser: Modern cuisine, 30 November 2000
Show More The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture by Rebecca Spang.
Harvard, 325 pp., £21.95, April 2000, 0 674 00064 1Show More
Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession by Amy Trubek.
Pennsylvania, 171 pp., £18.50, June 2000, 0 8122 3553 3Show More
“... drama of the restaurant: that of the man outside staring in at the merry eaters with hungry eyes. Amy Trubek’s Haute Cuisine takes up the story at the date Spang leaves off, 1850, and ends with the views of modern chefs she has talked to. Her subject is twofold: how it was that France was able to hold on so long to its domination of haute cuisine, and ...”