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Twenty-Two Different Ways of Cooking Veal

Margaret Visser: Modern cuisine, 30 November 2000

The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture 
by Rebecca Spang.
Harvard, 325 pp., £21.95, April 2000, 0 674 00064 1
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Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession 
by Amy Trubek.
Pennsylvania, 171 pp., £18.50, June 2000, 0 8122 3553 3
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... drama of the restaurant: that of the man outside staring in at the merry eaters with hungry eyes. Amy Trubek’s Haute Cuisine takes up the story at the date Spang leaves off, 1850, and ends with the views of modern chefs she has talked to. Her subject is twofold: how it was that France was able to hold on so long to its domination of haute cuisine, and ...

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