Down to the Last Cream Puff
Steven Shapin: The End of Haute Cuisine, 5 August 2010
Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine
by Michael Steinberger.
Bloomsbury, 248 pp., £8.99, July 2010,978 1 4088 0136 9 Show More
by Michael Steinberger.
Bloomsbury, 248 pp., £8.99, July 2010,
“... in debt, had a near-death experience. In 2005, Alain Senderens, of the three-star Paris restaurant Lucas Carton, handed back his Michelin stars, following the example set in London by Nico Ladenis and bad-boy star-chef Marco Pierre White. The burden was too much, and the economics didn’t compute. Convinced that Michelin requires a soigné ambience, Senderens ... ”