Clothes were everything to me

Lisa Cohen: Bill Cunningham, 25 October 2018

Fashion Climbing: A New York Life 
by Bill Cunningham.
Chatto, 256 pp., £16.99, October 2018, 978 1 78474 281 2
Show More
Show More
... to the world by making women an inspiration to themselves and everyone who saw them’, it may sound like the usual, gendered fashion hyperbole, but I believe him. Those who admired his work as an observer of fashion – and he was much praised in the last years of his life – invariably emphasised his disregard for worldly pleasure. He had a spartan ...

Diary

Alan Bennett: What I did in 2019, 2 January 2020

... less as a deliberate attempt to shock than to show how down to earth these courtiers were. Or it may just be laziness, there being some skill in inventing euphemisms or devising elaborations that get round obscenity. Still, an enjoyable film, if an anachronistic one, e.g. ‘the opposition’ not a feature of Parliament in the 18th century.11 February. A ...

Mothers were different

Susan Pedersen: The Breadwinner Norm, 19 November 2020

Bread Winner: An Intimate History of the Victorian Economy 
by Emma Griffin.
Yale, 389 pp., £20, April 2020, 978 0 300 23006 2
Show More
Show More
... In​ 1894, Mary Molloy married Jimmy O’Meara, a Liverpool docker. She was 30 and he was 37. Mary may well have fallen in love, but the marriage made economic sense too. Although she had worked since girlhood, she earned only 12 shillings a week – just above the average women’s wage at the turn of the century, but not really enough for her to live comfortably on her own ...

Diary

Pooja Bhatia: Leaving Haiti, 4 April 2024

... likely to be paroled into the US and allowed to make your case for asylum, although the hearing may be some years away. Crossing without an appointment, by wading or swimming across the Rio Grande and turning yourself in to Border Patrol, makes asylum almost impossible. It is also to risk immediate removal and a five-year ban on crossing ...

I must divorce!

Toril Moi: On Vigdis Hjorth, 6 February 2025

If Only 
by Vigdis Hjorth, translated by Charlotte Barslund.
Verso, 343 pp., £12.99, September 2024, 978 1 83976 888 0
Show More
Show More
... and how I stopped being one.’ To the extent that she played up to her media portrayals, Hjorth may have been responding to the postmodern trends of the 1980s and 1990s: play, irony, subversive mimicry of the things one is trying to undermine. I also suspect that she performed in order to hide her vulnerability. She seems, to quote her brilliant 2013 essay ...

Life on Sark

Jonathan Parry: Life on Sark, 18 May 2023

... quickly on Sark. Over time, the Barclays greatly reduced their entrepreneurial activity. In May 2013, Delaney threatened that his company would sack more workers unless the Sark government set up a customs post that would bring tourists direct from France, rather than via the other Channel Islands. Just before the 2014 elections, he announced ...

Always look in the well

Rachel Nolan: Guatemala’s Graves, 13 July 2023

Still Life with Bones: Genocide, Forensics and What Remains 
by Alexa Hagerty.
Wildfire, 296 pp., £22, March, 978 1 4722 9577 4
Show More
Textures of Terror: The Murder of Claudina Isabel Velásquez and Her Father’s Quest for Justice 
by Victoria Sanford.
California, 200 pp., £24, May, 978 0 520 39345 5
Show More
Show More
... But bones can’t speak for themselves and tell us who has done them violence. And those who know may have reason to lie. At trials for crimes against humanity, some of the most eloquent testimony comes not from survivors but from skeletons: a bullet hole, or the marks left by a sharp weapon, may be all it takes for ...

‘Ulysses’ and Its Wake

Tom McCarthy, 19 June 2014

... into sealed and buried files, to crack them open and break their contents out again, so that they may commingle and cross-pollinate. (In McKenzie Wark’s A Hacker Manifesto, to hack is ‘to produce the plane upon which different things may enter into relation’, to open grounds of possibility for the new creative ...

Wreckage of Ellipses

Anna Della Subin: On Enheduana, 8 February 2024

Enheduana: The Complete Poems of the World’s First Author 
by Sophus Helle.
Yale, 259 pp., £18.99, May 2023, 978 0 300 26417 3
Show More
Show More
... the poems and that they were only later credited to her as a celebrated historical figure. Or it may be that she wasn’t their sole author. But what matters is the attribution of authorship: the identification counted for something among ancient Babylonian scholars. Her authorial voice speaks in the poems themselves:I am Enheduana, Iam the high priestess.I ...

Collective Property, Private Control

Laleh Khalili: Defence Tech, 5 June 2025

The Technological Republic: Hard Power, Soft Belief and the Future of the West 
by Alexander C. Karp and Nicholas W. Zamiska.
Bodley Head, 295 pp., £25, February, 978 2 84792 852 5
Show More
Unit X: How the Pentagon and Silicon Valley Are Transforming the Future of War 
by Raj M. Shah and Christopher Kirchhoff.
Scribner, 319 pp., £20, August 2024, 978 1 6680 3138 4
Show More
Show More
... You may remember​ Palantir as the company that was given access to all of NHS England’s data in November 2023, in order to create a Federated Data Platform. The cost was £330 million – the largest NHS technology contract to date. Palantir’s first sales pitch to a UK agency came much earlier, in 2008, when its representatives gave a demo to an enthusiastic audience at GCHQ ...

Wild Resistance

Owen Hatherley: Adorno's Aesthetics, 6 June 2024

Without Model: Parva Aesthetica 
by Theodor Adorno, translated by Wieland Hoban.
Seagull, 177 pp., £19.99, June 2023, 978 1 80309 218 8
Show More
Show More
... painters (generally Adorno is funnier in moments of vituperation rather than jest). The piece may have been prompted by the amount of time Adorno, in his sixties, was spending on holiday. There are several travel sketches, which may have been attempts to emulate Benjamin’s shard-like essays on Naples, Moscow or ...

Eye to the Keyhole

Tom Crewe: Pratt and Smith, 25 April 2024

James and John: A True Story of Prejudice and Murder 
by Chris Bryant.
Bloomsbury, 313 pp., £25, February, 978 1 5266 4497 8
Show More
Show More
... under the recent Highways Act. He too went to Brixton, for six weeks.James, John and William may have taken some succour from [the magistrate’s] treatment of the only other men up for a capital offence that day, Thomas White and Alexander Lawson, who were charged with stealing cigars from William Tucker’s shop in Lambeth. Wedgwood decided to ...

Scoops and Leaks

Neal Ascherson: On Claud Cockburn, 24 October 2024

Believe Nothing until It Is Officially Denied: Claud Cockburn and the Invention of Guerrilla Journalism 
by Patrick Cockburn.
Verso, 293 pp., £25, October 2024, 978 1 80429 075 0
Show More
Show More
... the ethics of journalism. Inevitably, he brings up the bloody communist coup in Barcelona in May 1937, and the way two British writers – Cockburn and Orwell – recorded it. Orwell had been wounded fighting with the vaguely Trotskyite POUM militia and found the crushing of non-Stalinist units and the terror used to hunt down their sympathisers ...

A Walnut in Sacrifice

Nick Richardson: How to Cast a Spell, 7 November 2024

The Grimoire Encyclopedia: Volume 1 
by David Rankine.
Hadean Press, 739 pp., £39.99, April 2023, 978 1 914166 36 5
Show More
The Grimoire Encyclopedia: Volume 2 
by David Rankine.
Hadean Press, 660 pp., £39.99, April 2023, 978 1 914166 37 2
Show More
Art of the Grimoire 
by Owen Davies.
Yale, 256 pp., £25, October 2023, 978 0 300 27201 7
Show More
Show More
... in Europe by the Middle Ages. ‘Grimoire’ is French for ‘grammary’, a book of grammar: it may have been adopted because the manuscripts were often in Latin; perhaps it was a term used more generally of abstruse, esoteric texts. Certainly, grimoires had been around for many hundreds of years before they were known as such. There are grimoires among the ...

Ogres are cool

Colin Burrow: Grimm Tales, 20 March 2025

The Brothers Grimm: A Biography 
by Ann Schmiesing.
Yale, 336 pp., £25, January, 978 0 300 22175 6
Show More
Show More
... tie into anything at all – even, at times, themselves.The piece of biographical information that may help most in understanding the power of Children’s and Household Tales is that Wilhelm Grimm had Technicolor nightmares. He dreamed once that Jacob was freezing to death on an ice mountain and on another occasion that his brother Ferdinand had been flayed ...