The world’s worst-dressed woman

Ruth Bernard Yeazell, 1 August 1996

Queen Victoria’s Secrets 
by Adrienne Munich.
Columbia, 264 pp., £22, June 1996, 0 231 10480 4
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... portraits and monuments, Queen Victoria’s Secrets offers not so much an account of the Queen’s self-fashioning as an entertaining compendium of the conflicting guises in which the 19th century chose to see her. Victoria emerges here in all the infinite variety of a 19th-century Cleopatra – not just as Albert’s radiant bride or the reclusive widow of ...

Only Incognito

Gaby Wood, 6 July 1995

Katharine Hepburn 
by Barbara Leaming.
Weidenfeld, 549 pp., £20, March 1995, 0 297 81319 6
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... turned down films that didn’t include Tracy because she was afraid of his ‘capacity for self-destruction’ when left on his own. Leaming’s research is extensive and thorough, and all sources are acknowledged. She gives precise dates for all of Hepburn’s movements, and although we know where she was every day of every year, this means that our ...

‘Shop!’

Hilary Mantel, 4 April 1996

Behind the Scenes at the Museum 
by Kate Atkinson.
Black Swan, 382 pp., £6.99, January 1996, 0 552 99618 1
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... sticky note stuck? No felt-tip scrawl saying ‘Debt to Murdoch is crippling,’ or ‘X is to Self as Self is to Amis’ or ‘vivid, charming, but lacking in force’? What, page 100 reached, and nothing done? Nothing to say, except ‘I am really enjoying myself’? Anyone who reads, let’s say, Joanna Trollope will ...

Sydney’s Inferno

Jonathan Coe, 24 September 1992

The Last Magician 
by Janette Turner Hospital et al.
Virago, 352 pp., £14.99, June 1992, 1 85381 325 7
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Vinland 
by George Mackay Brown.
Murray, 232 pp., £14.95, July 1992, 0 7195 5149 8
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... passages are going to strike people as lurid, because she allows herself some moments of overt self-justification in which she makes sarcastic calls for a literature of ‘modesty and social decorum ... a literature that is unassertive, limpid, economical and lean’ (all of which The Last Magician is most certainly not). Such tactics are still considered ...

Five Tools for Going Forward

Paul Seabright, 23 July 1992

Beyond the Limits: Confronting Global Collapse; Envisioning a Sustainable Future 
by Donella Meadows, Dennis Meadows and Jorgen Randers.
Earthscan, 320 pp., £19.95, May 1992, 9781853831317
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... problems, Beyond the Limits offers us a vision of Armageddon and a generalised injunction to self-denial. In the aftermath of the Rio Summit it is as well to be reminded just whom this self-denial will hurt. Rio was only partly about the environment; it was also about the fears of the wrold’s poor countries that the ...

Bert’s Needs

Patricia Beer, 25 March 1993

Lawrence’s Women: The Intimate Life of D.H. Lawrence 
by Elaine Feinstein.
HarperCollins, 275 pp., £18, January 1993, 0 00 215364 5
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... themselves, helping each other with the earnest discussion of books and philosophy that marks the self-taught: rather like Leonard Bast. They were pretty and lively and – once they had recovered from Bert – they got married, mostly to teachers, or returned to existing marriages and settled down with apparent content into a station of life only modestly ...

The Fred Step

Anna Swan: Frederick Ashton, 19 February 1998

Secret Muses: The Life of Frederick Ashton 
by Julie Kavanagh.
Faber, 675 pp., £12.99, October 1997, 0 571 19062 6
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... in the Fifties. But today, more than 65 years after it was created, the humour seems trite and self-consciously cute, although this may be due to the current preference for technique over subtlety. Les Masques(1933) was the first ballet to incorporate what became known as the ‘Fred Step’ (a combination of five steps which he credited to Pavlova). It ...

The lads come on and on

Kevin Brazil: The Stud File, 20 February 2020

The Lost Autobiography of Samuel Steward: Recollections of an Extraordinary 20th-Century Gay Life 
edited by Jeremy Mulderig.
Chicago, 274 pp., £22.50, May 2018, 978 0 226 54141 9
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... actual existence) and our long ordeal begin once more’. Steward visited Greenwich Village, the self-appointed centre of American gay life in the 1930s, but he felt little need to move there, the much mythologised rite recorded in most queer autobiographies then and now. Given Steward’s three hundred sexual encounters in Ohio, one wonders whether these ...

Prophetic Chronoscape

Abigail Green: Brandenburg-Prussian Power, 19 March 2020

Time and Power: Visions of History in German Politics from the Thirty Years’ War to the Third Reich 
by Christopher Clark.
Princeton, 295 pp., £25, January 2019, 978 0 691 18165 3
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... Brumaire,make their own history, but they do not make it as they please; they do not make it under self-selected circumstances, but under circumstances existing already, given and transmitted from the past. The tradition of all dead generations weighs like a nightmare on the brains of the living. And just as they seem to be occupied with revolutionising ...

Diary

Patrick Cockburn: The 1956 Polio Epidemic, 7 May 2020

... it had taken place or whether it was caused by a virus or by bacteria. My ignorance was largely self-inflicted: from an early age I sensed that dwelling on what had happened to me, picking at the emotional scar tissue, wasn’t going to do me much good. Only in the late 1990s, when I was in Iraq talking to doctors and patients in ill-equipped hospitals hit ...

Powers of Darkness

Michael Taylor: Made by Free Hands, 21 October 2021

Not Made by Slaves: Ethical Capitalism in the Age of Abolition 
by Bronwen Everill.
Harvard, 318 pp., £31.95, September 2020, 978 0 674 24098 8
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... there is no hint of hagiography in Everill’s assessment of the abolitionists’ economics. Their self-interest is especially evident in her analysis of British debates about sugar duties. Under the system known as imperial preference, sugars grown in the slaveholding West Indies had low tariffs on entry to Britain, and were rewarded with bounties when resold ...

On the Interface

Nick Richardson: M. John Harrison, 15 July 2021

Settling the World: Selected Stories 1970-2020 
by M. John Harrison.
Comma, 288 pp., £9.99, August 2020, 978 1 912697 28 1
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The Sunken Land Begins to Rise Again 
by M. John Harrison.
Gollancz, 272 pp., £7.99, April, 978 0 575 09636 3
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... in science fiction known as the New Wave. In 2002, Harrison summed up the New Wave’s aims in a self-deprecating reassessment of his novel The Centauri Device (1974), which succeeded, in his view, insofar as it ‘took the piss out of SF’s three main tenets: (1) the reader-identification character always drives the action; (2) the universe is ...

Never been to Hamburg

James Meek: ‘A Shock’, 18 November 2021

A Shock 
by Keith Ridgway.
Picador, 274 pp., £16.99, June, 978 1 5290 6479 7
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... David that we don’t have the knowledge to make. We could suppose him to be an untrustworthy, self-obsessed, prissy bore; we could suppose him to be transfigured by a libidinous fantasy of self-abandonment into a more serene, less materialistic person. What Ridgway shows could lead us to either conclusion, or to ...

Was Plato too fat?

Rosemary Hill: The Stuff of Life, 10 October 2019

Fat: A Cultural History of the Stuff of Life 
by Christopher Forth.
Reaktion, 352 pp., £25, March 2019, 978 1 78914 062 0
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... that social ideals of body size and shape have generally been at some remove from the norm. One self-enforcing advantage of power and status has always been the ability to command a flattering reflection. If anyone thought that at 54 inches around the waist, Henry VIII was fat, they thought twice about saying so and in Holbein’s portraits of the king his ...

At least that was the idea

Thomas Keymer: Johnson and Boswell’s Club, 10 October 2019

The Club: Johnson, Boswell and the Friends who Shaped an Age 
by Leo Damrosch.
Yale, 488 pp., £20, April 2019, 978 0 300 21790 2
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... social composition, and gave it a more conventionally elite character. Ambitious, prodigious self-made men such as Johnson, Reynolds, Burke and Goldsmith were joined by establishment figures such as Lord Ossory (made a member in 1777) and Viscount Althorp (made a member in 1778), the first peers to be elected. By the time of Johnson’s death, there were ...