Reading Charles Lamb in Penguin's new edition, we were struck by this expression of frustration in ‘Detached Thoughts on Books and Reading’ (1822): What an eternal time that gentleman in black, at Nando’s, keeps the paper! I am sick of hearing the waiter bawling out incessantly, ‘the Chronicle is in hand, Sir.’ Lamb’s fondness for chicken – ‘those tame villatic fowl’ – is well-documented (though he preferred roast pork), as is his reluctance to sit through grace when a sumptuous me

