Matthew Carr

In June,​ I flew from Santiago to Arica, Chile’s northernmost city. Arica lies on the Pacific coast at the edge of the Atacama desert, eleven miles from the Peruvian border. It is known as the ‘city of eternal spring’, and even in the taxi from the airport the air was drier than in the capital, and it was warm enough for short sleeves. When I told my driver that I had...