Vol. 17 No. 7 · 6 April 1995
page 22 | 2242 words

Gap-osis
E.S. Turner
- Zipper: An Exploration in Novelty by Robert Friedel
Norton, 288 pp, £16.95, February 1995, ISBN 0 393 03599 9
Dr Johnson in his Dictionary defined ‘network’ as ‘anything reticulated or decussated at equal distances, with interstices between the intersections’. How, then, would he have defined ‘zip-fastener’? Since a certain testiness was apt to impair his objectivity, he might have settled for something like: ‘a hateful device in which collinear interdigitation usurps the function of buttons.’ He would happily have concurred with Carlyle in deploring the rage for calculated mechanical contrivance to replace manual operations. What was (and is) so wrong with buttons, snaps, poppers, hooks, studs, laces, toggles, drawstrings, safety-pins and even old-time fibulae? But, as Robert Friedel shows, the passion for novelty has become the real mother of invention; necessity rarely enters into it. Today the greatness of a nation is measured by the aggregated lengths of zipper to be found in its people’s wardrobes. The zipper has ceased to be the sine qua non and ne plus ultra of the privileged West. Friedel’s book reveals that the Japanese have won the race to zip up the world; his figures show that the Yoshida company, with its doctrine of the ‘cycle of goodness’, now has 171 zipper plants and factories in 42 countries, turning out 1.25 million miles of fasteners annually. How much longer can the last noble savage resist the zippered loincloth?
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Letters
Vol. 17 No. 8 · 20 April 1995
From Christopher Small
It’s surprising that, discussing the sexual significance of zippers, and the part played by this in their eventual hold on public fancy, E.S. Turner (LRB, 6 April) doesn’t mention Brave New World (1932, rather earlier than the epoch suggested for the zipper’s arrival as ‘the tool and symbol of seduction’). Surely Huxley’s super-pneumatic Lenina, stepping alluringly from her unzipped zippicamiknicks, might have been worth a mention?
Mr Turner didn’t touch at all on one of the zipper’s lasting holds on popular imagination, its utter mysteriousness. In more than seventy years I have never, despite frequent inquiry, found anyone who even claimed to know how zip-fasteners fasten, let alone explain it to me. This apparent magic must be one of the things which caused it to catch on, so to speak. Indeed, it must be a factor in the popular fascination exercised by a great many inventions, ‘necessary’ or otherwise. Though doubtless it is a help to have some practical application – are zippers really so inutile? Just wait till someone finds an everyday use for the Möbius strip.
Christopher Small
Edinburgh
Vol. 17 No. 10 · 25 May 1995
From Mike Kearney
Christopher Small (Letters, 20 April) might like to try an experiment with a dozen teaspoons to understand how zippers work. Take six spoons in each hand, interleaving the bowls and gripping the handles tightly: the spoons cannot be pulled apart. Reduce the pressure and they separate. The slide of the zipper opens and fastens the ‘spoons’ by causing them to hinge at the ‘handles’. As for an everyday use of the Möbius strip, the printer ribbon of the word processor I am using to write this letter is an excellent example: all of the ribbon gets used without my having to turn it over, since it only has one edge.
I cannot see what is so sexy about zips. Elastic was the erotic material of my childhood – but that was before the invention of Velcro.
Mike Kearney
Fismes, France